[edit: added the menu from the first night at Tachibana.]
I haven't written about how advanced Japanese phones are, but their phone infrastructure is so good and their phones so advanced that there was zero wireless anywhere we could find in Hakone. Nothing at the hotel, nothing in public places, but plenty of Japanese people using their phones for email and browsing web sites. Today was the first day of several without Internet access, so I'm posting things days after they were written.
Today was the first day of a short excursion to Hakone. Let me start by singing the praises of "takkyubin", as the delivery services are called. If you board a train in Japan that goes any distance, you'll notice that none of the Japanese people have any luggage other than a tiny carryon, and that the western people are hauling around huge suitcases. The reason is that before they got on the train, the Japanese people gave their luggage to a delivery service and paid a small fee -- often less than what US airlines charge you to check a bag on a flight. Their luggage will either be waiting for them at their destination or show up some time the next morning.
In our case, we gave our bags to the hotel's front desk, paid them the takkyubin fee ($15 per bag, based on size) for the famous "
Black Cat" delivery service, and headed off for the "romance car" to Hakone. (The "romance car" takes its name from the fact that two people can sit side-by-side on a bench seat instead of in individual seats.) I'm pretty certain we were the only gaijin on our train, and quite possibly the youngest people as well. Hakone is a town of hotsprings, scenic views, and golf. The vast majority of visitors seem to be here to soak in tubs and enjoy the local foods, including kamaboko and a variety of root vegetables that I can't find in any dictionary.
As for us, we were here to be pampered, soak in hot tubs, and see the local sights. So for this part of the trip we splurged and decided to stay at a mid-level ryokan in Hakone, Ryokan
Aura Tachibana. It wasn't cheap, but when you factor in the cost of two high-end kaiseki dinners and two high-end traditional breakfasts and an in-room hot-tub with an amazing view, it seemed rather reasonably priced.
This is also the first time we experienced "good" service in Japan. To begin with, the shuttle bus to the train station is on demand during normal business hours. When we arrived at the ryokan, the first thing they did was take our bags, serve us tea, and ask when we wanted breakfast and dinner. The service only got better from there.
Tachibana is a contemporary ryokan, so meals are served in the restaurant where we discovered just how rarely they get western visitors. We had a dedicated waitress who spoke enough English to tell us about some of the local foods we were being served and help us figure out how to eat a couple of things we'd never had before.
As we were getting settled in our rooms, they brough up our luggage and a couple of gaijin-sized kimono to wear. The rooms came with slippers, socks, haori, a hot-water dispenser for tea (already on), and the most amazing washlet we've seen so far, complete with motion sensors to auto open, auto flush, and auto close. Oh, and multiple drying temperatures and wash settings.
We showered, took a quick soak in our room's tub, then headed upstairs for "late" dinner at 7pm, early dinner being 6pm. Dinner was beyond all our expectations, a 12+ course kaiseki dinner. They were kind enough to make an English menu for us and print it out on the same schmancy paper they used for the Japanese menus.
So, here's what we had. Keep in mind that many of these things are a single bite of food or a smaller serving unless I note otherwise. So yes, there were six things in the appetizer course, but each was basically bite-sized. Also, some of the courses were served together, for example the rice and pickle courses at the end of dinner.
Appetizer: Bayberry liqueur, deep fried Japanese basil tofu, Carrot mousse resembled like a hydrangea with broccoli jelly, baked fig with uncured ham and kiwi fruit sauce, Collagen extracted from tuna with vinegar, Yam boiled with orange broad bean.
Soup: Common Japanese conger, Nemacystus decipiens, Dried tofu, Dried laver seaweed.
Sashimi on a glass plate: Tuna, Whitefish, Grain shellfish, cucumber, Daikon radish etc... [Note: this was several generous portions of some of the best sushi I've ever had. I can imagine this and half of the soup course being a dinner for a light eater.]
Baked dish: Baked flatfish with potato salad, Green pea sauce; Saffron risotto and Iberico pork with tomato sauce, corn, deep fried almond; Sweetfish sushi (Lotus root, Carrot and Egg in it)
Steamed dish: Our chef's original steamed fish paste. There are two kinds of them. Pine nuts and walnuts, Horse mackerel and sardine. [Note: they forgot I don't eat walnuts, then after I'd traded with
pinkitypinkpink, they brought out another plate of just the fish ones. These are basically homemade kamoboko and rather sizable portions at that.]
Cook in a pot: Please cook by yourself in the pot. Flour dumpling, Abalone, Eel, Rice cracker, Leek, Potherb, Winter melon
Western style Dish: Beef stew pie, Baked corn, Pea, Dried cherry tomato
Boiled dish: Egg plant mousse, Burdock mochi (Rice cake), bamboo shoot
Miso soup: Nameko mushroom, Honewort, Seaweed. Japanese pepper. 2 kinds of wheat gluten (millet and curled)
Rice: "Kinuhikari" rice which is raised around here.
Pickles: Four kind of Japanese pickles.
Dessert: Grand Marrnier ice cream in a cookie cup with caramel sauce.
After dinner, we took advantage of the "family tubs" that can be reserved for an hour for a small fee. Unlike the communal, segregated tubs available for guests, the family tubs are on the roof, open-air, and have a view of the hills over Hakone station. And yes, I took many photos.